Best Scuba Regulator for 2024 [UPDATED]
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This guide to the best scuba regs is by world-expert marine biologist, Dr Simon Pierce, co-founder of the Marine Megafauna Foundation where he leads the Global Whale Shark Program. Simon is also an award-winning underwater photographer and has done thousands of dives across the world.
I’m Simon, a marine biologist and underwater photographer. I’m lucky enough to work in remote areas like Raja Ampat and the Galapagos Islands so when it comes to my dive equipment, I need gear that is reasonably lightweight, reliable, and effective. My scuba regulator is vital to the success of my trip, and gear failure would be a real problem. I’ve been diving happily with Apeks regulators for three years, and hundreds of dives, and the APEKS XTX50 Dive Regulator is my pick for the Best Scuba Regulator for 2024.
A quick survey of my dive buddies made me pretty happy with my choice:
Danny Copeland, Underwater Filmmaker:
“Apeks or GTFO. Literally not worth even considering another reg brand. Hardest part is deciding which shiny Apek reg you want.”Dr. Elitza Germanov, Lead Scientist, Marine Megafauna Foundation:
“Love my Apeks! Over 2000 dives in Komodo's howlers.”Javier Sales, PADI Course Director:
“I own 12+ XTX50's and have for a long time. The best reg there is.”
I’ve also identified the Best High-End Dive Regulator for Travel, along with our other top picks for Best Regulator Under $500, and the Best Titanium Regulator Under $1000. Read on!
+ Contents
OUR REVIEWS: The Best Scuba Regulator for 2023
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Overall Winner
APEKS XTX50 Dive Regulator -
High-End Travel Regulator
Atomic Aquatics T3 Titanium Dive Regulator -
Best Under $500
Aqua Lung Titan Dive Regulator -
Best Titanium Under $1000
Scubapro MK25 EVO/A620 Ti Dive Regulator
THE RESEARCH: Buyers Guide to the Best Scuba Regulator
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Why you can trust this guide - who we are
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How we identified the best dive regulators
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Things to consider when choosing a Dive Regulator
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Dive Regulator Terminology
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A-Clamp Yoke or DIN Style Dive Regulators
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Dive Regulator First Stage Ports: High Pressure (HP) and Low Pressure (LP) Ports, Port Configuration
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Choosing a Dive Regulator Metal
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Rubber vs Braided or Threaded Dive Regulator Hoses
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The Dive Regulator Purge Button
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Un-Balanced vs Balanced vs Over-balanced Regulator Pressure
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Dive Regulator Servicing and cost
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Airflow bubbles - see the things!
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FAQ’s – Dive Regulators
The Best Scuba Regulators for 2024 are:
WINNER: APEKS XTX50 Dive Regulator
HIGH-END TRAVEL: Atomic Aquatics T3 Titanium Dive Regulator
BUDGET: Aqua Lung Titan Dive Regulator
TITANIUM: Scubapro MK25 EVO/A620 Ti Dive Regulator
BTW, I’ve listed all our winners for best dive gear here that includes my best Dive computers, Dive Masks, Dive Fins, BCDs, Regulators, and Full-Face Dive Masks in 2024.
Our Reviews.
The Best Scuba Regulator for 2024
1. Overall Winner
APEKS XTX50 Scuba Regulator
The Apeks XTX50 is the go-to choice for serious divers who focus on performance and durability. As a BBC filmmaker buddy of mine put it: “Apeks or GTFO.” They also look great, if that matters to you. You can get strengthened versions with metal plates if that’s useful to you, or if you particularly enjoy diving in freezing conditions. Me... not so much. But these regulators will do it all.
You might think a dive regulator like this must be expensive, but it’s actually not unreasonable. It’s firmly on the ‘affordable’ end of the scale compared to, say this Titanium ScubaPro with all the bling that costs over 4x more. Which admittedly, is very shiny, but my Apeks has proven to be a superb long-term choice for me, and I highly recommend the XTX50.
As a photographer I love the Apeks’ changeable wide exhaust system that directs bubbles away from my face as I exhale, minimizing destabilization of my camera gear. This is great for all divers, but especially useful for photographers.
Its braided flexi-hose is lightweight and tough for regular travel, the system features an over-balanced first stage to ensure optimal performance and airflow at depth, and it still breathes well even when I’m frantically trying to catch up with whale sharks.
The first stage also has plenty of ports to attach my computer transmitter, a back-up air gauge, or a second tank would be fine if you’re so inclined. It’s just a fantastic all-round dive regulator.
I put this gear guide out to my marine biologist and pro diver friends, who came back with:
“I've used the same Apeks reg for 7 years now and it has never failed me. Their parts are pretty much interchangeable with Aqualung so you can find them everywhere, and they can be serviced by any competent dive operator.”
“Yes Apeks. Doesn't matter which. All are tanks.”
“Apeks are always great!”
“I swear by Apeks.”
“I can teach you how to service them. They're very, very easy.”
Consensus achieved.
Why we love the APEKS XTX50 Dive Regulator:
Rotating swivel turret
Wide exhaust option
Available in A (Yoke) or DIN configuration
Tough, hard-wearing braided flexi-hose
Over-balanced and environmentally-sealed first stage
Two high pressure ports
Four medium pressure ports
Chrome over marine brass
Right or left side hose attachment, depending on which shoulder you want the regulator to come over (or for use on a second tank)
2. High-End, Lightweight Travel Regulator
Atomic Aquatics T3 Titanium Scuba Regulator
Titanium makes for an impressively lightweight design (did I even pack my regs?) at just 771 g.
or, check the latest price here
The T3 is the signature dive regulator from Atomic Aquatics, the “finest regulator you can own” in their words. If you can afford it, it’s a super-high-end regulator with an advanced, patented airflow control system. The T3 regulator is extremely lightweight and made from corrosion-resistant materials which make it a great choice for travel to hard-to-reach locations with limited baggage.
Why we like the Atomic T3 Dive Regulator:
First stage made from solid titanium.
Freeze protected.
Titanium second stage with black PVD coating.
Rotating swivel turret.
Available in Yoke or DIN.
Braided flexi-hose.
Over-balanced and environmentally-sealed first stage.
Two high pressure ports.
Five low pressure ports.
Optimum breathing resistance at all depths.
Dual silicone comfortable mouthpiece with tear-resistant bite tabs.
Auto venturi-effect (AFC).
Bag included.
Other things to consider:
Narrow exhausts do not expel bubbles to the side of your face.
Over $1500
3. Best Dive Regulator Under $500
Aqua Lung Titan Scuba Regulator
This third-generation model has been further refined to provide excellent performance in a fairly light, compact design.
or, check the latest price here
This regulator performs well for its price and if you’re a warm-water recreational divers who wants your own basic dive regular, or as a backup to a more expensive regulator like the Atomic T3, this may well do the job for you. In fact, we saw a diver buy this as a backup to the Atomic, but now prefers using this one day-to-day as it’s easier to pull apart and service.
Aqua Lung regulators have long been an industry favourite as a tough and reliable choice within dive centres. The Titan will be fine in the tropics, but note these do not perform well in the cold or at depth without their add-on environmental kit. If you are planning on diving below 80’, or in chilly water below 50 degrees, you could consider the Apeks which is about $100 or so more.
Why we like the Aqua Lung Titan:
Relatively cheap!
Chrome-plated marine grade brass construction.
Reinforced Polycarbonate makes second stage stronger.
T-shaped first stage.
Yoke design.
Two high pressure ports.
Four low pressure ports.
Lifetime Warranty
4.8 stars from 25 reviews on Leisure Pro
Things to consider:
Does not perform well in cold water (less than 50 degrees).
Does not perform well at depths over 80’.
Not ‘over-balanced’ pressurised, so breathing is not as easy at depths over 80’.
Rubber hose is not flexi-threaded.
4. Best Titanium Regulator under $1000
Scubapro MK25 EVO/A620 Ti Scuba Regulator
Lightweight titanium with all the features you’re ever likely to need from a dive regulator.
or, check the latest price here
The Scuba Pro MK25 EVO range is extremely popular go-to choice for experienced divers. The second stage is titanium, and first stage a chrome-plated brass (there is a full titanium version here for double the price). It features a thermally-insulated system for high performance in chilly water, and a beautifully balanced effortless breathing system. This video shows the black-coated version of the same MK25 regulator:
Why we like the Scuba Pro MK25 EVO Ti Dive Regulator:
Titanium second stage.
Rotating swivel turret.
Available in Yoke or DIN
Balanced and environmentally sealed first stage.
Two high pressure ports.
Five low pressure ports.
Optimum breathing resistance at all depths.
Things to consider:
First stage is not titanium. If you want that version, it’s over $2000.
The Research.
Buyers Guide to
The Best Scuba Regulator for 2024
Why you can trust this guide
Simon J Pierce is a shark conservation biologist and world-renowned underwater photographer who dives, snorkels and freedives for a living. He is a co-founder and Principal Scientist at the Marine Megafauna Foundation, where he leads the global whale shark research and conservation program. His marine research and photography are routinely covered by major media outlets, including the BBC, National Geographic, Discovery Channel, and New York Times amongst many others. One of his photographs was chosen as a personal favourite of Sir David Attenborough’s, in conjunction with the BBC Blue Planet II series, and another illustrates one of the global PADI scuba diving certification cards.
Madeleine Pierce is an avid scuba diver and recreational freediver who’s done hundreds of dives at some of the most spectacular locations around the world, including Misool and northern Raja Ampat, Lembongan, Lembeh Straight, Tulamben, Fiji, Vanuatu, and of course at home in Australia. She’s a minimalist and likes to travel light (which Simon encourages, as he can then use her baggage allowance!!), opting to mostly hire dive and snorkel gear wherever she goes. She’s been sampling the world’s equipment for over a decade. She has opinions.
The Nature Tripper team has been featured by:
How we identified the best scuba regulator:
We looked at all the current models from top brands globally to find the best dive regulators on the market in 2024. Aside from our own personal experience with lots of different computer models, we spent hours watching YouTube Reviews and product explainers, arguing with eachother, debating with diver friends, and scouring reviews and message boards. To summarize:
Between us, we’ve done around 2,500 dives and used lots of different regulators. Mads has chosen to rent gear everywhere she goes to save on travel weight so has experience with lots of models.
We spent 15 hours doing dive regulator research on Amazon, LeisurePro, and various other scuba message boards to get up-to-date on what’s available.
We both read hundreds of reviews to determine the actual performance of the various features.
We spoke to dive shop owners in Australia and Indonesia to find out what they use and recommend.
We surveyed our extensive network of professional divers (scuba instructors, professional underwater photographers, marine biologists etc) to get their opinions and feedback.
We watched dozens of YouTube reviews and product explainers, gathering multiple opinions – like the below by Mark of the Safe Diving YouTube Channel who’s worked in dive retail and knows everything there is to know about dive regulators. We always find his videos amazing!
Things to consider when choosing a Scuba Regulator:
A regulator is the 1st + 2nd stage + hose. Be aware this is what is included, and you’ll purchase the occy and pressure gauge separately. Some people who buy expensive regulators will buy a cheaper occy since it doesn’t get used as often, though we recommend buying the same brand if possible to ensure ease of servicing, and many will offer packages or sets.
How recent is it? The latest releases are usually easier to service, very old models are harder to service. See more below under “Servicing your Dive Regulator”
Do users love it? Real-world reviews are the best reviews. Quality over quantity though, to a point; recent releases will obviously have fewer reviews.
Port configuration – The first stage is where you attach your Second stage hoses, transmitters, pressure gauges, and BCD inflator hose. Some are swivel for flexibility, some are fixed which can bang you in the head. Some don’t have enough ports for transmitters or 2nd tanks. See more below under “Diver Regulator Ports”
Yoke or DIN – This is how you attached the first stage to the dive tank. A-clamp is the traditional clamp for max 230 BARR pressure and widely used in the US. DIN is a modern version used in Europe that takes up to 300 BARR. If you buy a DIN be sure to get a convertor when traveling in case the tank does not take DIN.
Pressure balance – Over-balanced Dive Regulators are easier to breath at depth more below under “Un-Balanced vs Balanced vs Over-balanced Regulator Pressure.”
Weight – If you’re traveling you’ll want a lightweight model. The lightest metal is Titanium, and the lightest hose material is a threaded hose.
Ease of Servicing – Just like with cars, some models are easier to service with easier to find parts. Some like the Apex are so easy to service you can do it yourself (though we wouldn’t recommend that!). This means that any dive shop technician that services gear, will be able to service your Apeks. Some other models require highly specialised technicians with hard to find parts. See more below under “Servicing your Dive Regulator”
Construction – It goes without saying that quality construction is essential for sae diving. We also look for quality so that nothing breaks mid holiday or research trip.
Cold or warm water diving – If you’re going tropical diving go Titanium or Chrome plated marine grade brass. If you’re going arctic diving you’ll want stainless steel
Remote expensive diving or local diving – If you are going on an expensive amazing dive trip like our Raja Ampat Trip then it’s worth spending a few extra hundred dollars to invest in quality gear that won’t let you down, and will be lightweight for traveling. If you just need something to throw in the back of the car that you can service easily then you’re probably fine to go with something a bit cheaper.
Scuba Diving Regulator Terminology
FIRST STAGE: the part that attaches to your tank
The First Stage takes pressure from your cylinder and converts it to a breathable pressure.
2 x bigger high-pressure ports are for your gauges and dive computer transmitters.
4 or 5 x low-pressure ports reduce the low pressure to ambient pressure and are for connecting your second stage main air supply, occy, and your BCD inflator hose.
Hose protectors work to protect where the hose meets the inlets to prevent bending and damage at the inlet point.
1st stage environmental seal – elastomer plate to prevent contaminants from getting into reg. their flex allows the transfer of environmental pressure to keep reg balanced
SECOND STAGE: the part you stick in your mouth
2nd stage purge button – Button usually on the front – though sometimes on the side. The button is large and sometimes the entire front surface is the button, usually with a graduated purge so the harder you push the more air flows
2nd stage breath adjustment – most come with this so you can adjust the breathing resistance when you breathe in.
2nd stage Venturi leaver works to prevent a free flow when you first dive in.
2nd stage Bypass tube is unique to mares – act to redirect airflow through the second stage, passing it through heat sync while pointing directly to the mouth for a more natural breath feel.
2nd stage Octo same as 2nd stage but bright yellow. sometimes set up stiffer so don’t free flow.
2nd stage ambidextrous tech can change right to left.
A-Clamp Yoke or DIN Style Scuba Regulator
A-clamp YOKE– max 230 BARR pressure. Traditional but larger and heavier. works by trapping O-ring and clamping over cylinder valve.
DIN – modern version screws into cylinder valve to trap O ring so can go to higher pressures upto 300 BARR
Scuba Regulator First Stage Ports
High Pressure (HP) and Low Pressure (LP) Ports
2 x bigger high-pressure ports are for your gauges and dive computer transmitters.
4 or 5 x low-pressure ports reduce the low pressure to ambient pressure and are for connecting your second stage main air supply, occy, and your BCD inflator hose.
Port Configuration
You’ll notice a bunch of ports and it’s wise to take notice of how these are configured, as these port locations and angles determine if you’ll bump your head on your first stage, where all the hoses are routed (thus – how comfortable your second stage feels in the water), If they’ll be all bunched up or nicely separated, and how much room for transmitters they’ll be. Here are the main configurations to keep an eye out for:
Spoke - Common but not ideal as can angle hoses away from body. Also can hit the back of your head.
90° - Angled out sideways makes hose routing more natural. Doesn’t hit your head.
Angled -Direct hoses away from eachother in a natural angle.
Swivel Turret - get this one if you can as it gives complete flexibility. It’s like the 90° but with 360° swivel so no hose pulling.
Choosing your Metals
Not all regs are made of metal - many of the starter models use plastics. In the mouthpiece though, metal will condensate your out-breath, providing much-enjoyed humidity when breathing in, preventing dry mouths. Usually, you’ll notice metal ribs or fins surrounding the hose inlet area – these increase surface area to absorb heat from surrounding water to warm up metal on the first and second stage which warms gas preventing ice from forming. A Metal 2nd stage will last longer, more durable, a bit more expensive.
Titanium is lightweight and strong popular for travel regs, but doesn’t work well in cold water or oxygen levels above 40%. Does not rust. Perfect for tropical diving travel.
Chrome-plated marine grade brass very common, excellent for heat sync and does not rust. Downside - it’s a soft metal so scratches and dents. Everyday diving.
Stainless Steel – not as common – great in cold water but need to keep dry when in storage… harder to maintain. Great for arctic diving.
PVD Coating – gives a dark look and increases toughness and durability.
Rubber vs Braided or Threaded Dive Regulator Hoses
Braided or Threaded– Modern style, flexible, lighter
Rubber – Traditional style, tough, reliable, heavy
Un-Balanced vs Balanced vs Over-balanced Regulator Pressure
But have you noticed it gets harder to breathe the deeper you go? This is because the your regulator wasn’t adjusting the pressure wit the surrounding environment. A regulator takes the high pressure air from inside your tank, and ‘regulates’ it (wa-HA!) to a pressure that goes through your hoses and into your body via the second stage (the part that goes into your mouth!). While over-balanced is the highest performing regulator, but for shallow dives you may not notice the difference.
Un-balanced is fine for most shallow recreational dives where water pressure is low, but as you go deeper, breathing will be harder and more forceful.
Balanced style first stage uses environmental pressure to adjust the interstage pressure inside the regulator to make it easier to breath.
Over-balanced performed like the ‘Balanced’, but has performance technology to makes it easier to breathe the further down you go down.
Scuba Diving Regulator Servicing and cost
When you own a regulator you need to get it serviced at a dive shop. The service schedule and cost is different for all makes so be sure to check before you buy - some might be ‘after 100 dives’ or ‘after 1 year’.
Older regulators can be harder to service
Newer regulators are usually easier to service as their parts are readily available. Older models are usually harder and dive shops might not be able to service them at all, or, need to order in special parts from overseas. Also - some dive centres don’t have the skills to service every type of regulator. This is a reason we love the Apeks, everyone can service them:
“I've used the same Apeks reg for 7 years now and it has never failed me. Their parts are pretty much interchangeable with Aqualung so you can find them everywhere, and they can be serviced by any competent dive operator.”
“I'll could teach you how to service them. they're very, very easy.”
Servicing schedule effects overall cost
Consider how often you’ll need to fork out cash for servicing. Some regs might have a more expensive up front cost, but then you may not have to service them as often, saving you money in the long run.
Warranty effects servicing costs.
A lifetime warranty means you only pay for servicing, not the parts like O ring replacements etc. Lifetime warranty usually will come with an annual service requirement so you will need to take that into account.
Airflow bubbles - see the things!
You don’t want to be lost in a sea of your own bubbles and for photographers especially this can be a big deal. Luckily there’s a range of second stage exhaust designs that expel air out the side like Simon’s Apeks top pick which has a wide exhaust that was especially designed with photographers in mind.
Bubbles all up in yo face.
I can seeeeeee!
Our Best Scuba Diving Regulators in 2024 are:
APEX XTX50 Dive Regulator - Overall Winner
Atomic Aquatics T3 Titanium Dive Regulator - Best travel high-end
Aqua Lung Titan Dive Regulator - Best under $500
Scubapro MK25 EVO/A620 Ti Dive Regulator - Best titanium under $1000
